Travelogue: København, Denmark

Some cities you visit once, while others keep pulling you back, and for me, Copenhagen is one of those places. Here’s a small, curated list of my favourite spots in the city.

Feb 07, 2025

I still remember vividly the first time I landed in Copenhagen—or rather, the time I stranded in Copenhagen. I was on my way to Reykjavík, Iceland, where my partner was studying at the University of Reykjavík. It was 2010, the year Eyjafjallajökull erupted, sending an enormous ash cloud across Europe. While my partner and his study mates ventured closer to the volcano (“because why not—it’s a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see an erupting volcano up close”), I found myself stuck in Copenhagen with no way forward.

What felt like a travel disaster at first turned out to be the moment I fell in love with the city. The last-minute hotel I booked offered me a bike to explore, so I did—simply because I had no other plan. That unexpected ride through the streets of Copenhagen became the start of something. Ever since, every time I return, I do so on two wheels.

Since that first, unplanned visit, I’ve been coming back regularly—for the vibe, the design, and, most of all, the food. My most recent trip in spring 2024 was special: I had the pleasure of traveling with two friends who share my love for food. Together, we ate our way through the city, stopping for design inspiration, excellent coffee, and, of course, the best pastries.

Now I know the world doesn’t need another Copenhagen city guide—there are plenty out there. But since I can never get enough of travel for food lists, here’s my incomplete travelogue—partly to remember the wonderful, flavourful memories from one of the best cities in the world. With spring just around the corner, you might be looking for travel inspiration, and I truly believe Copenhagen is always a good idea—especially in spring and early summer. So here’s my list, a collection of favourite spots, most of which I’ve visited twice over the past two years (2023 & 2024):

Breakfast

I’ll start with breakfast—my favorite meal of the day. And Copenhagen does it exceptionally well.

Atelier September: A staple on my list whenever I’m in Copenhagen. Founded by chef and restaurateur Frederik Bille Brahe, this café reflects an extremely nice Scandinavian aesthetic, focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients. I also love the way they mix and match plates—mostly in blue and white. They are probably most famous for their whipped butter mountain. Their signature breakfast is simple yet perfect: a boiled egg, good bread, whipped butter, and Gruyère. Last time, I also tried their granola with zucchini jam, a recipe I ended up recreating at home last summer. In 2023, they published a wonderful cookbook with their favorite recipes—including the recipe for the zucchini jam.

BÆST: An Italian-inspired bistro with the motto “everything is organic, naturally.” Founded by Christian Puglisi, BÆST brings together Italian culinary traditions and Danish organic produce. They have their own bakery (Mirabelle), charcuterie, and dairy production. We had a beautifully curated spread of charcuterie, stracciatella, Caesar salad, egg Bud Spencer (ham, eggs and beans), and Mirabelle sourdough bread, paired with fantastic apple juice and Prolog coffee. For dessert: baba au rhum.
Apotek 57: The café inside the Frama store, where you can sip coffee while sitting on their stunning furniture. It’s a lovely place for breakfast, with savory waffles and a fantastic kardemommesnurre (cardamom buns). In 2023, I also had a very good milky oolong, but unfortunately, I didn’t spot it in 2024. If they bring it back, don’t miss it.

Bakeries & Cafés

For me, bakeries and cafés are the real landmarks of any city I visit—partly because I worked for a bakery for several years. Bakeries reveal so much about local taste, craft, and culture. And coffee? That’s a lifelong love story. Btw, my most trusted source for café recommendations is the European Coffee Trip app—a must-have app for coffee lovers.

La Cabra: Originally from Aarhus and founded as a high-quality coffee roastery by Esben Piper, La Cabra in Copenhagen brings the same dedication to craft. They have an in-house bakery with artisanal pastries, and their kardemommesnurre are amongst my top 3. For me, this is the perfect combination of high-quality baking and specialty coffee—something I’d love to see more of in Vienna.
Albatross Og Venner: I stop here for their very good “Queen A”, a kouign-amann, which I also tried at Albatross Bakery in Berlin. They also make a very good, dense rugbrød.
Juno the Bakery: An absolute must-visit. Founded by Emil Glaser, a Swedish baker and former Noma pastry chef, Juno is known for its dedication to craftsmanship. Their kardemommesnurre is perfection—fragrant, with the ideal balance of density and flakiness as well as spice and sweetness. But their croissants and pain au chocolat are just as exceptional. There’s always a long queue, but don’t worry—it moves fast.

Prolog Coffee: A small but super good coffee spot near Juno. Perfect for grabbing a coffee to accompany your Juno kardemommesnurre in the nearby park.
Coffee Collective: With several locations across the city, my favorite outpost is at Torvehallerne. Their affogato with soft ice and espresso is a dream—I’ve even had it for breakfast. They also have circular to-go cups to reduce single-use waste and are actively engaged in sustainability. Read more about their climate action here.

Lille Bakery: Located in Refshaleøen, a bit off the beaten path but absolutely worth the trip. Founded by Sara Macedo and Mia Boland, the bakery is a relaxed space where all baked goods are made from locally sourced ingredients. Their philosophy resonates with me: “Good food can only come from good ingredients. To us, good means grown/raised responsibly for the planet and people. It means fair and in harmony with the soil and all its life. We solely work with local farmers and fishermen who share these views and who care about the why and how.”
Hart Bageri: Another fantastic bakery (that also offers the NOMA Projects ingredients). Richard Hart, the founder, worked for seven years at San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery before opening Hart Bageri together with René Redzepi in 2018. And soon, Richard Hart will be opening a panadería in Mexico City: Green Rhino.

Lunch, Snacks & Dinner

Ancestrale: An organic wine bar and lovely spot for dinner, where I also discovered Folk Kombucha, a local Kombucha brand worth trying.
Hija de Sanchez: This is the place for the best tacos in town. Rosio Sanchez, a former Noma pastry chef, founded Hija de Sanchez to bring authentic Mexican tacos to Copenhagen. She emphasizes traditional techniques and high-quality Mexican ingredients (which I love since you already learned about my love for Mexico). The churros are a must—no matter how full you already are.
Gasoline Grill: A high-quality organic burger joint, founded by Klaus Wittrup, with several locations. My favorite spot is their Broens Gadekøkken outpost, a high-end food market run by the Noma Group, located by the Copenhagen Harbour.
Kødbyens Fiskebar: Located in Copenhagen’s meatpacking district, this fish bar emphasizes fresh, sustainable seafood. A local-food-must-try: the Giga oysters from Limfjorden. The atmosphere is perfectly relaxed, whether you sit inside or outside. And this may come as a surprise, but their bread is one of the best I’ve ever had—the crust is almost caramel-like.

Palægade: A great place for smørrebrød, Denmark’s signature open-faced sandwiches. They serve both traditional and modern versions.
Iluka: Founded by Beau Clugston, an Australian chef with experience at Noma, Iluka focuses on seafood. We had a standout dinner featuring soft-shell crab with samphire and fresh herb sauce, fish skewers with cabbage, Thai basil, salted red currants, and squid liver and baked langoustine with bisque butter and parsley.
Gro Spiseri: The very best dinner experience I had recently in Copenhagen. Located in Østerbro, it’s a rooftop greenhouse eatery focused on farm-to-table dining. The menu highlights seasonal ingredients from local farms, with herbs, flowers, and honey sourced directly from their rooftop farm.

Book & Design Shops

Studio Arhoj: Founded by Anders Arhoj, this ceramic studio blends Japanese and Scandinavian design elements. The best part? You can watch them making ceramics.

HAY House: A two-floor design haven on Østergade (Strøget). Nice view too!
Books & Company: An English-language bookstore in Hellerup with a well-curated selection of magazines too. Its owner, Isabella Smith, is a regular on Monocle Radio, where she shares wonderful book recommendations.
Ferm Living: One of my favorite Danish interior brands. Their flagship store at Holmen is a truly inspiring space.

More Places to Explore

La Banchina: Right next to Lille Bakery, my dear friends Sarah and Maria introduced me to this special spot. Combining a café, bistro, and bathing house, La Banchina is the perfect place to slow down and take in Copenhagen’s relaxed vibe.
Botanical Garden: One of my favorite green spaces in Copenhagen, ideal for a peaceful walk and a break from the city's bustle.
Ørstedsparken: A beautiful park with plenty of quiet corners, perfect for unwinding and soaking in nature.
Nordhavn: This newly developed district is a fascinating blend of modern architecture, greenery, and waterfront living. There’s even a public swimming area, making it a great spot to experience Copenhagen’s seamless connection between city and sea.